Flavors of the Hinterland on the Riviera: Tasting New Wines, Prošek, and Traditional Dalmatian Prosciutto in November

Although November brings cooler and quieter days to the Makarska Riviera, it opens the door to Dalmatia's most authentic and powerful flavors. After the lightness of summer, the heavier, mature tastes of the Dalmatian Hinterland (Zagora) arrive at the table, ideal for warming up. November celebrates Martinje (the christening of young wine), and the Bura wind has already done its work on the prosciutto. Now is the perfect time to indulge in a symphony of wine, cured meats, and traditional brandies.

1. The Wine Rhythm of November: Young Wine and the Power of Prošek

November is a crucial month for wine enthusiasts. Martinje (St. Martin's Day) traditionally "christens" the young wine, signaling the beginning of the new harvest's consumption. In Dalmatia and Zagora, varieties that yield strong, warm wines dominate:

  • Red Wines (Plavac Mali): Robust, full flavors, ideal for cured meats. Ask for the indigenous Plavac Mali from the slopes of Biokovo or the Imotski region.
  • Prošek – The Dessert Wine: This is not sparkling wine (Prosecco), but the original Dalmatian dessert wine. Prošek is made from sun-dried grapes and has an intense, sweet aroma. It is perfect with cheese, almonds, or as an aperitif, serving as the perfect conclusion to any winter meal.

2. King of the Table: Dalmatian Prosciutto

Authentic Dalmatian prosciutto (Pršut) is an indispensable part of the autumn and winter feast. What makes Dalmatian prosciutto unique is the combination of salt, smoke, and, most importantly, the Bura (northern wind) from Biokovo.

  • The Secret of Aging: The prosciutto drying process takes at least a year, and the Bura gives it a specific, recognizable scent and texture.
  • How to Serve: Prosciutto is always sliced thinly and served at room temperature. Pair it with local cheese preserved in oil, domestic olives, and, of course, olive oil.

3. Cheeses and Golden Warm Uštipci: Indispensable Side Dishes

Accompanying prosciutto and wine, the Dalmatian Hinterland offers perfect partners, based on local milk and flour.

  • Homemade Cheeses: The most common are škripavac (a soft cheese with a specific squeaky texture) or sir iz mišine (a mature, stronger cheese aged in sheepskin). Don't forget the classic Paški sir (Pag cheese) if available.
  • Bread under the Sač and Uštipci: It's hard to imagine prosciutto without warm, fragrant homemade bread. In Makarska, you can often find uštipci— quickly fried dough served with prosciutto, cheeses, or jams, providing a warm and satisfying contrast to the salty meat.

4. Sweet and Healing Warmth: Brandies (Rakije)

Before or after the meal, traditional brandy (rakija) is essential. These drinks are known as "warmers," and every house in the hinterland has its unique recipe.

  • Travarica: Brandy infused with medicinal herbs (sage, rosemary, rue) that grow on Biokovo. It serves as an ideal aperitif.
  • Orahovica: Sweet, dark brandy made from green walnuts, traditionally used as a stomach remedy.
  • Višnjevača: Sweet liqueur made from the Maraska sour cherry—a favorite among ladies and perfect as a digestif.
  • Šljivovica: Clear plum brandy from domestic plums; it warms the soul.

5. Where to Find These Products in Makarska?

The best place to buy these indigenous products is not in supermarkets, but directly from the producers.

  • Pazar (Makarska Market): Visit it in the morning. Here you will find family farms (OPG) from the Hinterland selling homemade cheeses, cured sausages, Pršut, homemade uštipci, and their domestic brandies.
  • Small Konobas: Instead of the restaurants on the Riviera, look for smaller, family-run taverns (konobe) and wine bars. In November, they often host themed evenings dedicated to tasting new wine, prosciutto, and cheese.

November on the Makarska Riviera offers an escape from the crowds and an opportunity to experience Dalmatia through the palate—in its richest, most powerful, and most sincere winter variant.

Enjoy the flavors of the Zagora!

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