Black week on the plate: cuttlefish, octopus, and autumn delicacies at Makarska fish market
Although November brings shorter days, the first autumn storms, and the bura wind, in Dalmatia, it is synonymous with a richness of flavors and an authentic gastronomic season. While the summer months offer light white fish, autumn and winter are the time when the Adriatic bestows its most potent gifts. Especially in Makarska, where local fishermen often bring fresh fish and seafood by boat directly to the Riva, offering the freshest catch. Visit Makarska and discover why this is the peak season for all lovers of traditional, "heartier" seafood specialties.
1. Autumn's Main Stars: Cuttlefish and Black Risotto
Autumn is the time when cuttlefish (Sépie) reaches its full maturity and best quality. Its meat is then most abundant, and its ink is richest in pigment and aroma. Therefore, November marks the beginning of "black week" in Dalmatian cuisine, dedicated to this noble cephalopod.
Black Risotto: A Symbol of Fishing Tradition
No dish represents the autumn coastal cuisine better than Black Risotto. For a true Dalmatian black delicacy, only the ink of fresh cuttlefish is used, which gives the rice a unique, salty aroma and an intense black color. The risotto is generously moistened with fish stock, and the addition of a little prošek (sweet dessert wine) and Parmesan elevates the flavor to a higher level. This is a dish that calls for a glass of dry red wine and slow, meditative enjoyment.
2. Scampi Buzara: The Scent of the Adriatic in One Pot
While cephalopods are being caught, November also marks the beginning of intensive scampi fishing. Although scampi are available throughout the year, those caught in colder months are often the most sought-after. In Dalmatia, there is only one correct way to prepare scampi that celebrates their full flavor: "na buzaru" (buzara style).
Buzara is a simple sauce consisting of white wine, garlic, parsley, breadcrumbs, and of course, plenty of olive oil. The key is simplicity; the sauce merely enhances the natural sweetness of the scampi. Buzara is typically eaten with fingers, with the mandatory dipping of bread into the rich sauce (known locally as "toč").
3. Octopus: Peka Tradition and the Cold Sea
Although octopus graces the Dalmatian table all year round, its texture and flavor are improved by the colder sea. The most prized preparation method remains octopus under the bell (peka) (or cripnja) – a symbol of slow cooking and Mediterranean simplicity.
- Preparation: The octopus is baked together with potatoes, carrots, and olive oil, covered with a heavy metal bell (peka), which allows the meat to cook and roast in its own juices.
- Ideal Partners: The peka is always served with young potatoes and a generous amount of fresh olive oil.
4. Peak Aroma: "Prvenac" Young Oil
As we mentioned earlier, November is the time when young, freshly pressed olive oil (prvenac, novitet) is most intense. Its sharpness, bitterness, and intensely green color are highlighted due to its high polyphenol content. This oil is the crucial finishing touch for all autumn seafood specialties.
Use it raw for:
- A rich, pungent finish to Black Risotto.
- Generous pouring over boiled Swiss chard with potatoes (a traditional Dalmatian side dish).
- As a dressing for octopus salad.
Conclusion
November on the Makarska Riviera offers peace and quiet outside of the main season, but also an opportunity to experience the true, unadulterated Mediterranean rhythm. Visit the local fish market (peškarija) in the morning, find fresh scampi, cuttlefish, or octopus, and take home a bottle of the new, bitter oil from Biokovo. This is the essence of the Adriatic autumn – black, rich, sweet, and unforgettable.
Dobar tek! (Enjoy your meal!)




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