The Magic of Advent in Makarska: How the Riviera Prepares for Christmas and the Celebration of St. Nicholas
When the summer heat subsides and Biokovo Mountain puts on its first frost, the Makarska Riviera enters its quietest, yet most enchanting period—Advent. As the scent of salt mixes with the aroma of mulled wine and cinnamon, Dalmatia turns to centuries-old tradition and spiritual preparation for Christmas. Discover how this special time of anticipation is celebrated right by the sea, in the heart of the Riviera, and how St. Nicholas brings joy to the sailors and children of Makarska.
The Symbolism of the Advent Wreath
Lighting the first candle
Advent marks four weeks of anticipation for Christmas, and the central symbol of this period is the Advent wreath. Every Sunday, families gather to light a new candle, marking the growing light and hope. In Dalmatia, this tradition is respected, bringing warmth and togetherness into homes while the cool Bura wind blows outside.
The Four Symbols
Each of the four candles on the wreath has its special meaning: the first candle represents Hope; the second Peace; the third Joy; and the fourth Love. Through this gradual lighting, the local community follows a spiritual path toward celebrating the birth of Christ, transforming winter evenings into peaceful moments of reflection.
Decorating the Town and the Mediterranean Glow
With the start of Advent, Makarska gradually puts on its holiday attire. Instead of the opulent winter glitz of the north, a gentle Mediterranean glow dominates here—lights wrap around palm and olive trees, while the central town square features decorations that blend the seaside and mountain ambiance.
St. Nicholas and the Krampus Figures: The Tradition of Nikolindanje
St. Nicholas – Patron Saint of Travelers, Sailors, and Dalmatian Children
For Makarska, a city with a deep maritime tradition, St. Nicholas (celebrated on December 6th) holds special significance. He was a bishop from the Asia Minor city of Myra (modern-day Turkey) in the 4th century, known for his numerous miracles and, most importantly, his protection of sailors from storms and gales. In the Dalmatian calendar, Nicholas is the primary gift-giver, distinctly separate from Santa Claus (Djed Mraz) who brings gifts on Christmas Day.
Boots and Gift Giving
Tradition dictates that children place their clean boots in the window the evening before December 6th. For good children, St. Nicholas leaves small gifts, sweets, and fruit (especially mandarins), while naughty children might find a switch—but this is usually just a reminder of the importance of goodness.
The Relationship between Nicholas and Krampus
St. Nicholas never travels alone. He is accompanied by Krampus, a shaggy and noisy creature who represents the symbol of evil and punishment. This interaction represents the educational role of the custom: goodness is rewarded (Nicholas), and evil is warned against (Krampus). Although Krampus figures can look frightening, they are part of the folklore that serves as an exciting introduction to the holidays for children.
Advent Gastronomy: The Scents and Flavors of the Holidays
The King of Christmas Eve: Codfish for Badnjak and Fasting
The culinary peak of Advent is Christmas Eve (Badnjak), when fasting is observed, and the main dish is codfish. Dalmatian cuisine offers two main preparations: Codfish stew (Bakalar na brudet) (cooked with tomato and potatoes) or white codfish (Bakalar na bijelo) (beaten and mixed with olive oil and garlic). The aroma of codfish wafting through the old town center is an essential part of the pre-Christmas atmosphere.
Fritule, Kroštule, and Fragrant Sweets
No Dalmatian Advent is complete without Fritule—small, fried dough balls that smell of rum, citrus, and vanilla, dusted with powdered sugar. Specific to Dalmatia are fritule with raisins. They are often accompanied by Kroštule, crispy, fried ribbon-like pastries. These aromas are the first signs that the holidays have truly arrived.
Christmas Cakes from Grandmother's Kitchen
Throughout December, homemakers in Makarska begin baking the traditional cakes that must be ready for Christmas. Although tasted earlier, these pastries (like breskvice, husari, and rafioli) symbolize the abundance and unity of the family during Christmas.
The Advent Program in Makarska: The Square and Warm Huts
Kućice, Socializing, and Street Food Offerings
The Advent huts (Kućice) in the town square become the central gathering place. This is where the main social life takes place, featuring classic Advent dishes like sausages and local specialties, along with the inevitable fritule.
Tasting the Aroma: Mulled Wine, Višnjevača, and Medica
Cold Dalmatian evenings cannot pass without warm beverages. Mulled wine (Kuhano vino), infused with cinnamon, cloves, and citrus, is an absolute hit. For those seeking an authentic Dalmatian "warmer," there is Višnjevača (Maraska cherry liqueur) or Medica (honey brandy), which quickly elevate the atmosphere and warm the soul.
Ice Rink
For families and younger visitors, the Advent ice rink, if set up, becomes the main winter attraction, bringing an element of fun and recreation to the holiday program.
Music, Performances, and the Holiday Atmosphere
The town's program includes performances by local Klapa groups, choirs, and children's shows. Acoustic music and the gentle tones of Klapa perfectly fit the coastal Advent night, creating a special, relaxing holiday ambiance.
Experience the Quiet, Warm Advent in Dalmatia
Advent in Makarska offers a unique opportunity to escape the winter rush of big cities. Take the chance to experience Dalmatia in its most authentic holiday atmosphere, enjoying centuries-old customs, the scents of home cooking, and the warmth of mulled wine beneath the snowy slopes of Biokovo.
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